Nov
20th
Thu
20th
Spending $1500 a head on a meal? That’s obscene. But spending $1500 a head on a meal and then heading home before it’s even over? Now that’s conspicuous consumption. But it’s also something I can understand. A huge multi-course tasting menu with paired wines is exhausting, and often not much fun. A great restaurant meal has to have great food, but it can’t be only about the food — it’s also about the guests enjoying — as opposed to simply being impressed by — the food. And when you’re concentrating on the molecular gastronomy, and the ever-changing wine pairings, especially at a meal which is billed in advance as being incredibly unique and special — well, then you lose a certain amount of fun.
